Svend....for burrs...I use my guides with a diamond stone (blue) followed by the Ceramic stone, fine (white). Deburrs, polish and hardens. I always travel with a medium file also just incase.
I detune the shovels from tip to where the board runs flat both tip and tail using some fine grit sandpaper and keep those edges fairly rounded off.? I know not all think this is necessary but I have no problem carving my skis and haven't been thrown to the ground having caught an edge.
Between brushing stokes tip to tail, I use a paint brush to remove the brushed out wax.
My brushes are Steel to open structure and brush out the first heaviest coat of wax usually 2 strokes tip to tail only,? then brass/nylon combo untill majority of wax is brushed in and off, followed by white nylon, followed by horsehair followed by blue short nylon brush for polishing. The blue nylon brush get's lots of strokes to the ski. You can see I'm into brushing cause I've seen great results with how well the bases hold up, provide exceptional glide and actually get better as more coats of wax are brushed in.
P-tex is a funny creature....I use the sticks you flame up and drip...I've repaired small holes but the bigger ones still give me headaches....they just don't always hold. Scraping even on the smaller ones sometimes pulls out the material. I think the key there is to be patient, let it cool, and scrape gingerly. Apply more coats of p-tex in layers if needed. I honestly admit this is one area of tunning I am weak on. I just had a core shot along the edge under foot and was very patient applying and re-applying the p-tex untill they looked really good. Took them to the mountain on Sunday and end of day, the entire repair had blown out. So...took them to the shop at the mountain and for $10, they repaired them. Haven't skied them since but I'm anxious to see if it holds. If so...I'm going to ask the boys what their secret is.
I might have a tuna or turkey sandwich...
Best,
G
Home
Login
Register