Canada Trip Support

[jim-ratliff]

As opposed to a "Trip Report" this is a Trip Support request.

Lynn and I are considering a long weekend trip to Quebec via Montreal. We're focusing on just visiting and seeing old Quebec city, but are taking along the mountain bikes in case that opens up scenic opportunities.
Welcome any experiences, thoughts, and recommendations of things we should see/do.
Visiting the "Plains of Abraham battlefield" is already on the list, as is a visit to the fur district of Montreal.

Montreal has over 600 kms of bike paths, bike bands and designated bike lanes that ring the island and bisect it from north to south (Christophe Coloumbe-Berri). The most popular of these are the paths along the historic Lachine Canal and through the Old Port of Montreal. Other interesting rides can be found along the Canal l'Aquaduct and the south shore of Lasalle which passes the Lachine Rapids.
Many of Montreal's nature parks have cycling paths including Cape St Jacques, Ile Bizard and Bois-de-Liesse. If your reasonably fit and don't mind a little road work you can take a ride through Mount Royal Park or as its refered to locally "The Mountain" which will reward you with some nice views of the city from the lookout.

Surrounding Quebec City there are the Piste Jacques Cartier/Portneuf, the Corridor des Cheminots as well as the Corridor de Littoral. Further east the Petite Timis connects the province to New Brunswick through a 130km link from Riviere du Loup to Edmunston. The paths through Gatineau provide the Hull/Ottawa region access to beautiful Gatineau Park while north of this the Pontiac PPJ streatches for 72km along the shores of the upper Ottawa River.

[Svend]

Jim, Lynn,

We have little experience cycling in Quebec, but we have visited the province many times, both to Montreal and Quebec City.  In general, you will find no shortage of good biking trails and routes wherever you go.  There are many rails-to-trails gravel paths through the countryside, rural roads, urban bike paths....whatever you fancy, it's there.  The people there are avid cyclists, so you will feel right at home.

Some specifics...

Montreal:  I can't give better advice than what you posted above.  The sector of Old Montreal, the waterfront, Lachine Canal, and east to the rapids are great.  If you want to leave your bikes and go exploring on foot, away from where most tourists go and into an area where locals congregate, the Rue St. Denis from about Blvd. Maisonneuve north to Ave. du Mont Royal E. is really great -- lots of neat boutiques, cafes, restaurants.  I will send you some restaurant recommendations by email for some authentic French cuisine.

Quebec City:  the areas you posted are must-see, esp. the old town below the Chateau Frontenac.  Very charming.  But also check out the lower town at the east end of the city center, near the harbour.  There are some really interesting little streets with wonderful local bistros...again, locals only.  For cycling in the area outside of town, drive a bit east to the island Ile d'Orleans which is in the middle of the St. Lawrence river.  Very charming farm country, with some great views of the big river from the high land.  Pack a picnic.

When in Quebec City, I would highly recommend getting out of town into some of the small towns inland and along the river to see some of the countryside.  There is a 68 km rail trail just north of the city called the Velopiste Portneuf / Jacques Cartier.  Check out this link for maps:  http://www.quebecregion.com/en/what-to-do/ideas/cycling?a=vis

For rural roads along the shore, head east to Beaupre (about 30 min.), and a bit further to Baie St. Paul.  The latter is in the Charlevoix region, which is very scenic and charming.  And close to the Le Massif ski area!

Surrounding Quebec City there are the Piste Jacques Cartier/Portneuf, the Corridor des Cheminots as well as the Corridor de Littoral. Further east the Petite Timis connects the province to New Brunswick through a 130km link from Riviere du Loup to Edmunston. The paths through Gatineau provide the Hull/Ottawa region access to beautiful Gatineau Park while north of this the Pontiac PPJ streatches for 72km along the shores of the upper Ottawa River. [/b]

Ignore that bit of advice -- those places are hours of driving from the city.  Riviere du Loup and New Brunswick are way to the east.  Gatineau and Hull/Ottawa are about 4-1/2 hours drive west and north, in the other direction, past Montreal.

Enjoy the trip, and let me know if you need more details.....like what to eat! 

[midwif]

Ah Svend
Excellent info! Some of which brings back memories.
My son lived on a parallel street on Rue St. Denis for 3 of his 4 years in montreal.
All of the streets you mention ring a bell.

And would love to hear recommendations of where to eat in Montreal.
My son was really fond of a few places that were mostly student oriented, so it would be fun to
try a more adult perspective.

And Poutine is off the menu, please!

Loved your suggestions for Quebec City. Aided and abetted by Max 501 who also recommended Chateau De Frontenac.
We will probably splurge and do a night or two there.
There is a restaurant in Quebec, which I ate at previously, that had a menu based on colonial
fare. Though greatly updated I am sure!
The food was good and different.
Boar anyone?

Really liked your suggestions of the  east end of Quebec with local fare.
Any suggestions?

Thanks for all info.
Looking forward to a bit of summer biking and eating.
Because clearly, this trip requires "degustation" or whatever the word in french is.

L.

[Svend]

Lynn, it's pretty hard to find a bad restaurant in Quebec, especially if you stick to actual French cuisine.  That said, some of the best eats are in small local bistros.  Always reasonably priced, and with a classic French style to their cooking.  You can get sushi or Thai or Italian anywhere, so if you're going to Quebec you just gotta eat French food.

I don't know many restaurants in Quebec City, so really can't give you much to go on.  But as I mentioned, try the lower town to the east of city center, near the harbour.  There are some really good little local neighbourhood bistros there that serve excellent food.  We ate there several times when last we were there, which was many years ago.

As for Montreal, here are some of our favourites (all serviing classic French cuisine):

Chez Gautier on Rue du Parc about 2 blocks north of Sherbrook.  Traditional Parisian bistro, with decor that makes you feel like you're sitting in Paris, and food to match.  I eat here every time I go to Montreal on business.  Local hangout for McGill professors, politicians, and everyday folk like me.  A Montreal institution.  Unpretentious, relaxed, friendly service, great food.  You could while away 3 or more hours, and the waiters make you feel like you in your second home.

Le Parchemin on Rue University just north of Rue St. Catherine.  More classic French than bistro, which means lots of creamy sauces (yum!), white table cloths, waiters in shirt and bow tie....that kind of place.  Housed in an old church, which gives it a great atmosphere.  Again, unpretentious, friendly, wonderful service.

Bonaparte on Rue Saint-Fran?ois-Xavier in Old Montreal.  This is regarded by many locals as perhaps the best classic French restaurant in Montreal.  Like Le Parchemin, it has waiters in tuxs, elegant ambiance, excellent food.  More formal than the above, less relaxed.  But reasonably priced (as are almost all restaurants in Montreal) and friendly.  Highly recommended.

Let me know if you make it to any of these.  Enjoy!!!

[Gary]

You guys should know your Trip Advisor turned 50 yesterday.....No he wasn't at the mountain skiing....but his wife put on one heck of an almost surprise party with family and friends that went on for 2 days.

HAPPY B DAY SVEND!

geez....50....wow.. .old     er        

G

[LivingProof]

Svend,

Happy BD, you mere child you! Damn, I'd like to return to 50 (although they were the dark days when I skied very, very infrequently).

@ Lynn

I was last in Montreal in the spring of '67 to attend the start of Expo. 4 wonderful days in the life of an almost broke college student. Hmm, need to return ....sooner than later.

and...are there any hidden messages in your new signature line...a little aggressive for our favorite feminine skier.

[jim-ratliff]

Svend:


    Happy Birthday, young Mr. Viking.

[Gary]

"Inconceivable"   (another clue Mike)

Andre the Giant"  (Final Jeopardy Clue)

Great movie Lynn!

[jim-ratliff]

I reloaded Lynn's avatar and also took the liberty of assigning the signature  "may the odds be ever in your favor" because it captured the essence of a recent movie so well and challenging her to change it.  She demonstrated her "technical competence" by updating her profile to the current value. (and she has seen Manny several times on the hometown streets, which further endears that movie as her favorite).

[Svend]

Thanks everyone for the kind birthday wishes.  But a raised eyebrow  , followed by a steely threatening gaze at Gary for calling me out.  I've been trying hard to convey an online persona of a much younger man.  Like someone Josh's age.  Thanks G, for blowing my cover! 

I must admit that until about 2 weeks ago, I was feeling pretty morose and grumpy about turning 50.  Like walking into a big dark cloud.  But now that I'm 50 +1 day, the world as I know it hasn't changed too much, and all my parts are still attached and functioning as normal, I'm actually OK with it.  Having everyone here for the weekend to celebrate and ease me into it really helped a lot.  So the coming decade is looking much brighter and I'm really looking forward to it.  It might even be better than the previous decade. 

Cheers,

Svend

[jim-ratliff]

Svend:


You've been very successful -- both Gary, LivingProof, and I think of you as a MUCH younger man. 

[Svend]

Ha! That's because you and Gary know me and have seen a grey hair or two on my bean.  It was all the others I was trying to deceive.  Now that the word is out, I'll have to bring my writing style back to that of a much older man.     Like using simpler words with fewer syllables.  And a larger font.   

[jim-ratliff]

Nope!!  It's because, comparitively, you ARE a much younger man.  It's all perspective.


And thanks for all the Canada insight.  Do they have automobiles in Canada (with paved roads)? What are the traffic signs like?  Do I need a French cheatsheet in order to drive and navigate safely?  Are cell phone systems compatible,? 
What's the French word for Banos?
Most importantly, does Pepsi come with ice by default, or do I have to say "con hielo"?
I assume that just using credit cards is easier than worrying too much about cash and exchange rates?
What is the recommended range of tips at restaurants and stuff (for Americans, if we have a different behaviour and have set expectations)?

[Svend]

Er....gosh Jim....  How long has it been since you moved away from Kansas?   

[jim-ratliff]

Hmmmm. Long enough that I remember that my grandfathers tractor didn't have rubber tires, and that his house didn't have electricity, running water, or indoor plumbing.

And a certain admiration that he had lived through the dust bowl years during the depression.